From 4.5 to 9.5.2025, my colleague doc. M.Husár and I completed a short working visit to the Department of Human Geography of Stockholm University as part of the Erasmus+ program (M.Jaššo) or the Start Up project (M.Husár). Our stay was dedicated to pedagogical and training activities, following up on past cooperation with Stockholm University. Doc. Husár presented the issue of Positive Energy Districts in Slovak conditions (case study Trenčín) and I prepared lectures on the topic of Central European planning culture and the CENTROPE region. We also addressed issues of bilateral cooperation between STU and the University of Stockholm, as well as practical aspects of mutual cooperation within the framework of ongoing scientific and research activities (STARTUP project).
The capital of Sweden is located on the border of the historical provinces of Uppland and Sodermanland and, with an area of 188km2, it extends to the touch of the Baltic Sea and Lake Malaren. The unique location between the Baltic Sea and Lake Malären predetermined the character of the city between water and land, spread over 14 islands. The oldest structures of the city are located on the island of Helgeandsholmen and form the so-called Gamla Stan – the historic center. Especially the royal and church buildings, built of the most durable materials, have been preserved. The oldest building in Stockholm is the Riddarholmskyrkan church, other old buildings include the City Museum and Storkyrkan. Gamla Stan was fortified in the Middle Ages – due to the threat of attacks from Denmark. Stockholm experienced a massive construction development in the 17th century when the Royal Palace (Kungliga Slottet), the House of the Knights and other magnificent noble buildings were built. During this period, the city (as the only one in Scandinavia) acquired the imperial grandeur we know from large Western European cities. The 18th century, especially during the reign of Gustav III (1746-1792), brought a great influence of French culture and architecture – symmetry, bright colors and long lines, elegance. For example, the Royal Opera House was founded at that time. The 19th century brought the industrialization of the country, associated with the construction of new neighborhoods, railways, hospitals and infrastructure.
The 20th century is the century of emancipation and the onset of organized modernity. The whole of Sweden is changing from an agrarian-craft state on the outskirts of Europe to one of the most developed and modern countries in the world. The architecture of the interwar period is inspired by American models but continues to develop the “Swedish Grace” style characterized by modern interpretations of classicism, clean lines and Protestant moderation. Architects use wood, metals, cast iron materials and Sweden is the flagship of high modernism – an example is e.g. National Library (Stadsbiblioteket, 1928). Functionalism was first understood as a rationalist movement, oriented towards the technical aspects of modernization and progress, but later became the architectural representative of the philosophy of Folkhemmet (“home for everyone”), a left-wing dream of social justice and equality, which became the dominant social narrative for over half a century. Gunnar Asplund wrote about a “place in the sun for everybody”. Since the 1980s, Stockholm architecture has been characterized by an orientation towards ecological values and sustainability, but the city has to face a whole range of new problems. In the 21st century, Stockholm is becoming a global destination, one of the most visited metropolises in the world and is becoming a cosmopolitan city.
The most representative district of Stockholm, built mainly in the period 1860-1930, in the eclectic style of the so-called national romanticism, is the so-called Ostermalm. After 1860, the pressure from developers/investors on city officials increased (during this period the population increased by 46% – migration from the countryside). The spacious apartments facing the street were already occupied by the rich nouveau, but the poor were still crowded into the small apartments above the backyards. Ostermalm is the first district to undergo a comprehensive development (emancipation of the banking sector) and in 1875 the city adopted the so-called Lindhagen Plan. While the western edge of Östermalm (Birger Jarlsgatan) is a lively city district with the most lucrative boutiques and financial institutions, the inner parts are very quiet, with only a subtle presence of local businesses.
Since the beginning of the 20th century, Östermalm has been “The fashionable neighborhood” with the highest prices (most embassies are located here). The reasons are good connections to the center, wide esplanades and boulevards allowing a generous layout, the almost complete absence of former industrial structures and a clearly defined, relatively compact urbanity with well-readable boundaries. The lower edge of Östermalm is formed by the waterfront with tall classicist and art nouveau houses (most of which are now luxury hotels) and a yacht mooring. The favorable ratio of greenery and the good soundscape of the neighborhood, relatively easy orientation and slightly sloping terrain contribute to the fact that Ostermalm is a very pleasant neighborhood that integrates the “big world” (yachts, tall palaces) with vernacular elements (market).
The island of Södermalm, located south of the historic center (Gamla Stan), is the most dynamically developing part of Stockholm (110,000 inhabitants) (“from working class suburb to trendy heart”). Originally a rural, agricultural part, later industrialized, it has always maintained a certain distance from the city (there are few bridges). It is gradually undergoing transformation into a multifunctional district, popular among young people, with a strong multicultural tradition, which is, however, interpreted very positively. Its urban morphology is strongly influenced by the terrain configuration (rocky cliffs and steep coastline in places) and we find a large representation of greenery and nature here.
However, Stockholm also includes suburbs built within the so-called Million Homes Programme (Miljonprogrammet) in the years 1965–1974. It was a national program aimed at solving the housing crisis by building modernist housing estates in the suburbs of Swedish cities, originally intended as starter apartments for local residents, later transformed into housing for immigrants, to whom the universalist Swedish value system was to be conveyed. Sweden was the most perfectly secured so-called welfare state after World War II (rich natural resources, neutrality in both world wars, the concept of the so-called Protestant ethic) and political discourse was dominated for decades by the so-called “Folkhemmet” (home for everyone) – a predominantly left-wing political ideology, which was adopted not only by social democracy but also by right-wing conservative parties. The national consensus of the universalism of Swedish humanism was a generally accepted value model for years. After the turn of the millennium, however, these housing estates entered a crisis and today many of them are plagued by the consequences of unmanaged integration and negative social phenomena. Places like Rinkeby, Husby, Tensta etc. are the product of state planning (rigid structures from the times of organized modernity) but spatial appropriation takes place according to different cultural patterns (hierarchy in the community, informal activities, specific visual language and visual codes). In Sweden, social inequality is rather increasing and it is increasingly difficult to leave excluded communities (poor permeability of social structures in society, growing social skepticism and reluctance to integrate from both sides).
The utopian future of a sunny state for all ended in runny concrete facades with cheap faded advertisements for pizza or hairdressing. However, just a few stops away is the Kungliga Tekniska högskolan – a university campus like from the movies. And when you visit the green Djurgården, full of museums, elegant sailing ships, picturesque cottages in the open-air museum or excursion restaurants, that beautiful colorful film of childhood will start playing in your head again, woven from all those old trips, amusement parks, ice creams and other surprises… In short, that good old Sweden is still there, you just have to look for it better.
© 2025 Matej Jaššo
